A very fine, ageable Pinot that shows a feral, exotic quality that is rare, but always welcome. Grown on the true, cool coastal strip of the appellation, it's dry and crisp in citrusy acids, with intricate flavors of wild cherries, balsam, maple syrup, teriyaki-grilled beef, licorice, cola and Asian spices. such is the tannic structure that it should evolve over the next 8-10 years.

Only the second release from this relatively new property owned by the renowned Joseph Phelps family of the Napa Valley, the ‘06 is a revelation of sorts. This is a refined, spicy Pinot that exhibits the structure and minerality, as well as the silky tannin, of a premier or grand cru Burgundy . . . The stated alcohol of 14% is modest by current standards, and the elegance and finesse are evidence of this delicacy of body. Yet the fruit is vibrant, almost explosive, with a purity that is searing.

Good fresh dark red. Captivating aromas of strawberry, raspberry, flowers, incense, mocha and loam, with some Burgundian funk and blood orange emerging as the wine opens in the glass. Quite supple, even creamy, in the middle palate, with musky red berry, earth and spice flavors nicely framed by harmonious acidity. As round and seamless as this is in the middle, and as silky and lush as it is on the aftertaste, there's no shortage of structure. Some whole-cluster and whole-berry fermentation has contributed both an intriguing floral/spicy quality and a creamy sweetness. I've been following this venture since the Phelps family purchased this cool-climate Sonoma Coast property in 1999, and this second release of the estate's flagship pinot is a knockout.

A moderately high-toned nose of red pinot fruit, violet, menthol and spice hints introduces delicious, intense, round and sappy medium-bodied flavors that possess good depth and length. This is a generous yet stylish effort that offers good depth and about the only nit is a trace of backend warmth. Adding to the appeal is that with 20 to 30 minutes of air, this can be enjoyed now though it clearly has the stuffing to improve over the next 4 to 7 years (2013+).

Firm and intense. Spicy wild berry, loamy earth, dusty herb, sage and mineral notes fan out nicely, gaining depth and dimension on the long, complex finish. Drink now through 2012. – J.L.

Made from both Dijon and Old California Heritage clones. Aromas of underbrush, red currants, and spice are followed by a wine with more texture and flavor than the 2005.

Very lovely and pure aromatics featuring dark red berries and stone fruits infused with herbs, and subtle oak toast and spice. A charming and demure wine on the palate that is silky and supple with understated but satisfying red and black fruit flavors complemented by deft use of oak progressing to a persistent and memorable finish of spiced fruit and orange peel. The wine’s balance is impeccable portending a long life ahead.

For $75 you should expect an extraordinary wine. You wouldn’t be disappointed. The ‘06 Freestone is everything California Chardonnay could and should be if it were always planted in the right place, with the right clones, and a minimalist philosophy that emphasized the purity of exceptional fruit from outstanding terroir. Well, a boy can dream! The Freestone is a textbook in restraint, delicate and vibrant, with notes of lemon custard, brioche, a scintillating minerality and barely obvious oak. Remarkably, it is not texturally austere, offering an oily palate despite firm acidity and a crisp, long finish. Very impressive.

Joseph Phelps, of Napa Valley fame, has been working this cool-climate vineyard for years. Now it’s paying off, in this acidic Chardonnay with a tang of the sea. Rich in Meyer lemon, lime, guava and spice flavors, its coating of smoky oak adds exotic levels of buttered toast and crème brûlée. Fascinating and tremendous. — S.H.

Possesses zesty acidity along with notions of orange and lemon blossoms, a steely texture, and a subtle note of wood. It is medium to full-bodied with outstanding freshness, and a very good finish.

Pale gold. Aromas of pineapple, nectarine and butterscotch, lifted by a whiff of lemon drop. Dense and firm-edged, with a distinctly saline quality adding interest to the nectarine and mineral flavors. Racy ripe acidity really carries the fruit on the firm, uncompromisingly dry back end. Serious Chardonnay in the making, with little in the way of easy tropical fruits, and an alcohol level under 14%.

Great Eight of 2008
Freestone Vineyards – What a welcome addition to the landscape of California wine. Freestone is owned by the Joseph Phelps family of the Napa Valley and specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. The wines are all about purity of expression and terroir, but more than that they hark to a style of winemaking that prizes balance and elegance over sheer power. The 2006 Chardonnay is simply stunning. Only a handful of California producers – Kistler, Sonoma Cutrer, Nickel & Nickel, Patz & Hall – play in this league.